Believe it or not, these are 30-year-old vines, from the Smith-Cerne vineyard, a real rarity here in the Pacific Northwest. The quality shines through; winemaker Peter Rosback has taken this fruit and shaken out every nuance and subtlety it possesses. It has the elegance, texture and complexity of Sancerre, with less of the rock. The herbaceous notes are restrained and the fruit is immaculate, but what is really impressive is the length of this wine, which seems as if it could age for a decade or more.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.