This wine sparked wide debate at the Brunello en primeur tasting because of its new, more streamlined style. Siro Pacenti's 2004 Brunello is not the concentrated blackberry and chocolate fudge bomb of the past. It's still a meaty, layered wine laced with pretty layers of spice, mineral and ash. But instead of black concentration, it now exhibits ruby luminosity and a fresh, menthol finish. We are impressed.