A traditional crusted LBV that has had plenty of time to mature in the bottle. Perhaps a little too much time, since the brandy is beginning to show through as the wine dries out. But it is still a delicious, mature Port, worth enjoying now. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.