Solis 2013 Fiano (Santa Clara Valley)

It's odd to find reductive elements on a white wine, but this—which comes from a property that's grown grapevines for a century or so—shows an tarry funk on the nose, with crisp pears and honeyed apples slowly emerging. The palate offers stonefruit syrup, honey and poached pears, and also gives off rubbery reductive elements. Matt Kettmann

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