Square Peg 2017 Square Peg Estate Ottimino's Block Zinfandel (Russian River Valley)

From a dry-farmed vineyard named for its founder, this is a thick, spicy red wine, dazzling in black pepper, leather and tobacco. Lively, layered and complex, it intrigues in its grasp of high-toned acidity and length of enduring freshness. Virginie Boone

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