Stephen Ross 2013 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)

The veteran San Luis Obispo-based winemaker heads south to the historic vineyard to produce this wine. A wildly dynamic nose suggests unripe lemon skin, pencil lead, oak and smoky wisps of a beach campfire. The woody, cedar element—though not really oaky—provides an intriguing palate of pencil shavings, green pear skins and lime pith. Matt Kettmann

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