This leathery, spicy wine is fully mature—perhaps too old. It has lost fruit certainly and gained a touch of cocoa along with the wood from barrel aging. It's not going to improve so drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.