Some wines can hit 15.4% alcohol, as this does, and make it work. But here the burn and scorch from the alcohol simply overwhelms some excellent fruit. Detail is lost, and what's left is a hot, jammy red.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: email@example.com.