Dominated by spicy wood, this first vintage from the Symington family's organic vineyards is big, rich, very toasty, with layers of new wood over the sweet blackberry fruit. If it doesn't hang together now, it is likely to integrate over the next few months, as the exuberant wood and alcoholic heat calm down.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.