Tablas Creek 1999 Reserve Cuvee Red (Paso Robles)

It has the density of body and texture that big, ageable red wines have, but the stuffing, not to mention the acidity, doesn't seem to be there. It's hard to separate out what you know of the ambitions of this winery, which aims to produce Chateâuneuf-style wine in California. This is a fascinating work in progress. A blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and Counoise.

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