Tandem 2004 Ars Mácula Red (Navarra)

Aromatic notes of talcum powder and scented candles give this Bordeaux blend from Navarra a light, pleasant bouquet. But the palate is more starching and hard than ideal, leaving a spiky, jagged feel to the wine's raspberry and plum fruit. So rugged and jarring that food is downright mandatory. Ripped but punishing. Michael Schachner

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