This wine from a Loire Valley clone is light in the glass and reductive at first, showing dried grass and sour green apple skin scents on the nose. That grassiness comes through on the palate too, until more rounded stonefruit pops on the midpalate. Prominent acidity carries those flavors into the finish.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.