Tantara 2000 Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)

Softer than the Pisoni, with a limpid mouthfeel that suggests mountain water. The flavors veer toward herbs and sun-sweetened tomatoes, with a suggestion of sour cherry. Shares the house style of elegance, lightness of body and complexity; it's a wine of intellectual rather than physical charm. —S.H.

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