Single-clone wines can be less complex than clonal blends, but not in this case. The nose is dominated by anise, but the slightly bitter flavors are richer than Tantara's other Rio Vista Vineyard bottling, almost reminiscent of spicy beef goulash. Similarities do persist, though, such as the supple and suave mouthfeel, with an enduring finish.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.