Testarossa 1999 Signature Reserve Chardonnay (California)

Editors' Choice

My cousin, who lives in France and likes austere, challenging wines, found this impossibly oversized, but American palates will be in awe. Late-picked grapes have an almost botrytized sweetness, and the whole is lavisly oaked. It's Disneyland in your mouth, always something flashy going on.

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