Thomas Fogarty 2004 Portola Springs Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

There's a minerality to this Chard that makes it bracing, although it also shows the opulence of Fogarty's other '04s. A tang of gunmetal undergirds the tropical fruit and vanilla custard flavors that are wrapped into a creamy texture. Almost begs for shrimp, lobster, crab, the more richly prepared, the better.

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