Thomas Fogarty 2011 Albutom Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This is the flagship Chardonnay from Thomas Fogarty Winery, a one-barrel lot that comes from a third-acre vineyard. And yet, from the winery's excellent 2011 line-up, it brings the least to the table. A zesty, grassy lemon-lime soda nose lands on the palate with Key lime and very little complication, making it pleasurable, but fairly breezy for the headiest of the Fogarty lot. Pair with halibut or seared scallops. Matt Kettmann

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