Thomas Fogarty 2011 Portola Springs Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

Sourced from a 35-year-old vineyard with views of the San Francisco Bay, this wine offers aromas of toasted oak, marshmallow, green pear and wet rock. The wood is quickly wiped out by brisk acidity on the palate, but then emerges again on the creamy finish. Given the acid levels in this cool vintage, this wine will evolve through at least 2019, but it's fine now. Matt Kettmann

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