Three Rivers 2002 Ahler Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))

This single-vineyard, single-variety bottling tastes like it was poured right out of the barrel. It sports the sort of firm, nuanced flavors that winemakers look for: clean varietal fruit with highlights of iron filings, gravel and pepper. But it is not a complete wine unto itself; there's a bit of a hole in the middle. Paul Gregutt

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