Three Rivers 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))

This is almost pure Cab, with the addition of just 2% Malbec. Solidly in the firm, muscular, polished style of winemaker Holly Turner, this is a substantial effort that will need to be decanted if you are going to drink it any time soon. Black cherry, cassis and blue plum are swathed in milk chocolate, but this is Cabernet with its sinews intact, showing streaks of herb, smoke and light pepper. I can't imagine a better companion to it than a good, rare steak. Paul Gregutt

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