Torbreck 2017 Les Amis Grenache (Barossa Valley)

Torbreck's ultrapolished, approachable style is on display here, but those who spurn new oak influence will run a mile. Made with French barrique (50% new), there's so much of it that it's currently blanketing the wine, giving it a coat of sweet vanilla cola. Hiding beneath are lovely, ripe black and blue fruit, flowers and spice. The palate shows more fruit purity, a silky texture and a fine tannin structure. The oak still dominates, though, and a flash of heat from the alcohol is visible, too. Give this another few years in bottle; the cellaring potential is there. Drink 2021–2028. Christina Pickard