Ripe blackberry and cherry fruit and classy oak team up to deliver the goods in this palate-pleasing Cabernet Sauvignon. There's plenty of tobacco and earth, and in style and weight it's somewhere between Bordeaux and California, with a heavier nod to the former. Already delicious, this will hold well through the decade, maybe longer. It is an apt demonstration of why weight and density are less important than flavor, texture and balance. Take that, extraction junkies. Drink now through 2008 and beyond. Cellar Selection. —M.M.