An earthy touch of freshly turned soil clings to the pure apple note on the nose. On the absolutely dry palate, however, a beautifully lithe, serene but all-encompassing cloud of lemon freshness just steals the show. It pervades and informs nose, palate and mind. Its luminosity and vivacious freshness just soars and sings. Yes, this is uncompromising. You have to like freshness, acidity and unflinching honesty to be a fan of this, but if you are, this is a ticket to vinous heaven. Wow. This is a real experience and a celebration of site and variety. Hoard this if you can. Gorgeous and fresh now, but far too young. Drink 2022–2040.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.