Troon 2018 Cowhorn Vineyard Grenache (Applegate Valley)

While its estate vineyards are being replanted, Troon is sourcing some grapes from Cowhorn, as shown here. Bright and penetrating, this pure Grenache brings complex details of truffle and licorice around spiced apple and berry fruit. The mouthfeel is especially drying and astringent, as in some concrete-fermented wines, though this was not done that way. Match it to a fat, juicy burger for best results. Paul Gregutt

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