Bright and light, this Basque-country white, literally from seaside vineyards on Spain's north coast, is full of lime and wet stone aromas and flavors and has a faint yet unmistakable saline nuance. The slight spritz on the tongue adds to the lively feel. As might be expected from a wine cultivated on hills facing the Bay ofBiscay, this begs for shellfish, octopus or other seafood. Drink it cold and young. —M.M.