Whites from red wine specialist Umathum are rare, but then so is Pinot Gris in Austria. This wine has a racy quality, topped with spice that sets it apart from its nearest comparison, Alsace. There is a touch of wood as well as the spice, lively and fresh to finish.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.