Umathum 2013 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland)

This takes a little time to emerge from its shell. Even then the wine does not want to give too much of its rich aromas away, but it offers hints of elderberry and spice. The palate is svelte but shows fleshy fruit haunted by white pepper. There is tone and verve, but this will take time to come into its own. Drink 2017–2020. Anne Krebiehl MW

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