Umathum 2013 Ried Hallebühl Zweigelt (Burgenland)

Editors' Choice

Lifted red cherry is suffused with the smell of wet oak leaves crushed underfoot. Hints of wood smoke and Darjeeling tea join these subtle notions. The palate is a picture of ease, like a watercolor that blurs gentle, red fruit edged with freshness, autumnal foliage, earthy tang and mellow spice. Yet all is framed with precision and poise. A light but knowing touch was at work here and has enabled this Zweigelt to attain gorgeous, Pinot-esque evolution. Anne Krebiehl MW

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