Wood-fermented, lees-stirred, superrich wine. It is complex, the acidity adding to the nectarine and pineapple flavors. With the wood element carefully judged, it does have power but never oversteps the mark. A real success, and worth aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.