A complex bouquet of inky fruit, meat, dry-rub spices and pronounced clove and cinnamon elements segues into deep black fruit and coffee on the smooth, mid-weight palate. The often-rustic Toro character is beautifully handled, showing elegance without losing typicity or power. This structured wine closes full and dry, with a reprise of the spice notes and mouth-coating but even tannins. Drink 2004–2010+, or now, with hearty food. Best Buy. —M.M.