Ventana 1999 Syrah (Arroyo Seco)

You want to like this wine more than you do, because it's from a great vineyard and a great vintage. The problem is thinness. It's got great bones, superb texture and dry tannins, and it's easy to taste the quality of the blackberry, pepper-infused fruit because it flatters the palate. But everything is diluted. —S.H.

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