A wine with the ripeness of a good 2002, with White fruits and a densely texture character. The one problem at this stage is with the dosage, which pushes sweetness forward, giving richness but also unbalancing the fruit and acidity. Give the wine 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.