Following the fashion of bone-dry Champagnes, this is extremely crisp and taut. Acidity cuts the citrus and apple flavors to produce a steely feel, with concentrated fruit juice and a textured character. It's worth aging the wine for a few more months.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.