This is a wood-laden wine that shows more spice than fruit. It has a bitter edge, and heavy toast notes that mask the red cherry flavors. Maybe in a year it will soften to yield a more rounded, less extracted character.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.