Tight and stalky, the wine seems to be going through a strangely muted phase. It is full of firm tannins, black currant acidity and a tough aftertaste. It need time to open up; drink from 2015.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.