This wine is reserved, holding back its full fruit behind a strong, stern shell of tannin. Berry fruits mingle with spice and wood flavors. It's going to need several years' aging to show the concentrated structure of the Douro.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.