90 Villa Selvapiana 2000 Vigneto Bucerchiale Riserva (Chianti Rufina); $31. Lots of mature complexity on display here. The nose delivers classy tobacco, rubber and smoky tar aromas as well as mature dry fruit, and the palate is lively and tight. Blackberry, cinnamon and vanilla flavors lead into a tannic but healthy finish. Maturing as we speak; drink through 2007.