A finely crafted wine, with taut, tight green fruits. This is not from a great Champagne vintage and this does show in the extra layer of green fruit. But the balance works impressively well, the dryness and structure are never too austere. Certainly worth some aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.