The structure is the thing here, a square, firmly tannic wine. The dry core of this impressive wine spreads out to the dark plum skin and loganberry flavors, solid and finely angled.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.