Considerable bottle aging shows with the nutty, toasty flavors of this wine. The fruit has gone, leaving structured maturity, somewhat austere, but a definite appeal to those who like older Champagne.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.