Fully rounded, and crisply dry, this has a great foamy, creamy texture, filled out with red apple skins, pink grapefruit and an open aftertaste. Is the aftertaste just a touch sweet? Perhaps, but that seems to be part of the balance, and not out of place.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.