Whaler 1999 Flagship Zinfandel (Mendocino)

Dark as the grave, and pretty closed in the aroma right now, offering up hints of blackberry, pepper, earth, chocolate and bacon. Tastes late-picked, with pruny flavors and lots of mouth-numbing tannins, although the alcohol is a modest 13.7%. What it lacks in depth and nuance it makes up for with sheer chutzpah.

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