Wieninger 2018 Select Chardonnay (Vienna)

The sonorous notion of woodsmoke on a winter day fills the wine's nose with promise. That smokiness is also present on the palate and gives and edge to the beautiful lemon freshness and the more mellow, yeasty core. This is concentrated and serious, taut and bold but needs time to mellow. It will be serene, smoky and elegant. Drink 2022–2032. Anne Krebiehl MW

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