William Fèvre 1998 Valmur (Chablis)

Valmur sits in the middle of the grand cru region, forming a valley bordering Vaudesir and joining Les Clos (Fèvre owns sites on both sides of the border). This is a stylish, intense wine with a slightly smoky quality to the powerful fruit. It sets up beautifully in the midpalate—firm and expansive. Layers of stone, mineral and crisp fruit are highlighted by a tangy saltiness that really sings with oysters. Paul Gregutt

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