There's a luscious outer edge to this wine, with mango and peach flavors freshened with citrus. But at its dense core, it is all mineral, flinty, the wood present but certainly not dominant. It needs time, maybe 3–4 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.