This is the epitome of great Chablis, with minerality, initial austerity and coiled power. It is a dense, tense wine, structured with both toasty tannins and green fruits that shine out of all this concentration. Age for 7–10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.