William Hill Estate 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

It must be the coolness of the estate, because even in this hot vintage, this wine is dry, tannic and relatively moderate in alcohol. It's an old-fashioned Napa Cab, in the best sense, made in a balanced, ageworthy style that impressed before the modern era of superripe opulence. Fine now, and should hold and improve for a good ten years.

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