Williams Selyem 2003 Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

It's hard to describe this as Chablisian, given the 15-percent-plus alcohol, but that word captures its minerality. There's a flintiness underlying the oak, citrus and peach flavors of this bone-dry wine. Similar to grand cru Chablis—it's tough in its youth. Hard to tell where it's going.

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