Windsor 1999 40th Anniversary Reserve Merlot (Dry Creek Valley)

This venerable private label winery pulls out all the stops with what may be their most expensive wine ever. It's dry, with plush, stylish tannins, but marred by excessive softness and, worse, overripe flavors of raisins. It's primarily from Dry Creek Valley, natural home to Zinfandel, but not the greatest source of Merlot, which needs cool weather for balance. Luke Burke

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