Wineglass Cellars 2005 Sangiovese (Yakima Valley)

Wow, this is one mighty dark and smoky Sangiovese. It's got the acidity and some of the cut tobacco qualities of Italian Sangio, but at almost 15% alcohol it's definitely ramped up to New World color and concentration. The fruit sources—Elerding and Boushey—are impeccable. A little less ripeness and barrel might restore some of the missing nuances. Paul Gregutt

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